What to see at Athelstaneford

Visitors, including school parties, are welcome at Athelstaneford. The village lies some 20 miles from Edinburgh and is easily accessed off the A1. The B1347 turn-off is a mile to the east of Haddington and signposted.

The site is a 4-star visitor attraction, comprising the Flag Heritage Centre, the Saltire Memorial and the historic Parish Church and graveyard. These are described in greater detail below. The Church and Memorial can be visited at any time. The Heritage Centre is open daily between 09:00 and 18:00 from April to October and on St. Andrew's Day. Admission is free.

The Flag Heritage Centre

This occupies a lectern doocot, located to the north of the Church, which was built in 1583 by George Hepburn, and restored in 1996. Within the enclosed atmosphere of the doocot, visitors can enjoy a short audio-visual dramatisation of the 9th century battle above which the St Andrew's Cross first appeared in the sky. Adjacent to the doocot is a viewing point with interpretative panel, and there are spectacular views northwards towards the battle site.

Doocots, introduced to these islands by the Normans, were once common in Scotland, but are now rapidly disappearing from the rural scene. Pigeons were a highly desirable addition to the winter diet at a time when fresh meat was not available. The doocot filled the role of today's deep-freeze! The birds had many advantages - they were prolific, they needed little space, and they foraged for their own food. It was the turnip which rendered the doocot a thing of the past. The introduction of this root-crop made it possible for the farmer to winter his beasts. Pigeons gradually disappeared from the menu, and doocots fell into disuse.

The Athelstaneford doocot is one of the earliest surviving Scottish examples from the 16th century. Intriguingly, the son of the builder George Hepburn, Sir John Hepburn, was the founder and first colonel of the Royal Scots. This famous Scottish regiment, the First of Foot, has used the Saltire as its emblem since the 17th century. The arms of the Hepburn family can be seen on the door lintel of the doocot.

The Saltire Memorial

This is located at the south east corner of the churchyard. Built in 1965 and restored in 1993, it consists of a battlescene carved in granite within a concrete plinth. The main panel shows the two armed hosts facing each other, the one about to claim victory, the other already accepting defeat, under the sign in the sky of the St Andrew's Cross.

The inscription on the Memorial is as follows:-

TRADITION SAYS THAT NEAR THIS PLACE IN TIMES REMOTE PICTISH AND SCOTTISH WARRIORS ABOUT TO DEFEAT AN ARMY OF NORTHUMBRIANS, SAW AGAINST A BLUE SKY A GREAT WHITE CROSS LIKE SAINT ANDREW'S, AND IN ITS IMAGE MADE A BANNER WHICH BECAME THE FLAG OF SCOTLAND.

Attached to the Memorial is a tall flagpole on which a Saltire is flown permanently, even during the hours of darkness when it is floodlit, as a reminder of the Flag's origins.

The Church and Graveyard

The original church in Athelstaneford was built in 1176 by Ada, wife of Henry Prince of Scotland, and mother of William the Lion. This continued to be the parish church until 1780 when a new church was erected. The church is open daily, and visitors are welcome to enter. One of the fine stained glass windows within the church (north transept) is of Scotland's patron saint, St Andrew. On display is the richly decorated Book of the Saltire which chronicles the local origins of Scotland's flag.

A walk along the pathways around the churchyard will reveal many fascinating memorials. Of particular interest is the gravestone on the western wall to Adam Skirving (1719-1803) who wrote "Hey, Johnny Cope". This well known song tells of another East Lothian battle - the defeat of the Hanoverian Army under Sir John Cope by the Jacobites at Prestonpans on 21 September 1745. Most Scots will be familiar with the words of the chorus: